Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Muncogato’ 2014

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

The wines of Produttori del Barbaresco were my first introduction to Barbaresco. The good bit was being introduced to a producer that is now a staple in my cellar. The bad bit was all of the lesser Barbaresco I tried after that. They had set the bar high!

Barbaresco is often considered the poor cousin to Barolo. That it certainly is not! The benefit for us is the marketing hype around Barolo which is often deserved and sometimes not help keep prices of Barbaresco reasonable. Produttori produces what are undoubtedly some of the best value Barbarescos available today.

Just last week we had a 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco standard next to a 1996 Vietti Riserva Villero – in today’s money $75 vs $750. The Vietti was undoubtedly the superior wine, but, gee the Produttori held it’s own for a wine of the comparative price.

There really is an incredible amount of wisdom in Aldo Vacca’s winemaking.

A rare opportunity to try the best Crus from across Barbaresco, and, explore the diversity of personalities in the wines of the region, from feminine, and, perfumed, to brooding and structured.

They are all excellent wines of distinction, with a few more years in the bottle they will be a truckload of fun.

“The 2014 Riservas are dark, potent and built for aging…In many years, this range includes one or two slight underperformers, but in 2014, the wines are superb across the board. Some will drink well earlier than others, of course, but this is one of the most consistently outstanding set of Riservas I can remember tasting here.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (August 2018)

Aldo Vacca has deftly brought the Produttori del Barbaresco into modern times while making subtle changes to farming and winemaking yet maintaining the traditional style that has made this coop so adored by its rabidly loyal fan base. The changes at Produttori have been gradual to the degree they aren’t always so noticeable, but they are there. No one knows every nook and cranny of Barbaresco better than Aldo Vacca, but Vacca has also proven to be incredibly wise in making choices that have positioned the Produttori for much continued success in the future. I can’t think of too many wines that deliver this much pleasure and value. Antonio Galloni

The 2014 Vintage at Produttori del Barbaresco

2014 was a quite difficult season in the vineyards all over Europe, however, the favourable end of the season proved to be a pleasant surprise for the quality of the grapes on the Langhe Hills. In particular, the region of Barbaresco was a shining exception in a difficult vintage.

After a mild winter, we experienced the usual up and down. Unfortunately, this climatic pattern continued through June and July resulting in a mixed pattern of cool/warm days and frequent, heavy, extremely localized rainfalls. The ideal conditions for the spread of vine diseases made vineyard management and spray timing absolutely crucial in order to save grapes through the harvest. Summer green harvest was mainly focused on limiting the potential risk of botrytis spread, the work in the vineyard was crucial and painstaking through the summer.

By mid – August, however, Barbaresco was experiencing a much better situation, far dryer than the rest of Piemonte. September was undoubtedly a more positive month with good day/night temperature difference which proved to be fundamental for the ripening of the grapes and the complexity of the aromas.

In the end, the total rainfall during the growing season in Barbaresco was almost one third than the rest of Piemonte and almost half of the one in Barolo. As we know a dry end of the season is all that it takes to make a great vintage. We were, therefore, able to wait and Nebbiolo harvest started late in Barbaresco, at least by the new millennium standards, on October 8th and ended, under dry and sunny conditions, on October 22nd.

2014 wines will be similar to those from the 2013 vintage, medium in body, but well balanced, rich in colour and aromas, with a great mineral finish and long lasting potential.

A bit about Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo is an incredibly challenging grape variety to grow, make, and, as a consumer, sometimes, to drink and understand.

The name incorporates ‘Nebbia’ or cloud. Driving the vineyard clad hills of Barolo or Barbaresco in Piemonte (at the foot of the mountain), you’ll often find yourself immersed in clouds! A function of the topography and the region being surround by mountains on three sides.

Nebbiolo wines tend to focus more on what we call secondary characters, earthy, truffles, violets, woody herbs, tar. The texture / mouthfeel is a hallmark of Nebbiolo. They can be extremely tannic demanding rich food to balance them, and time in the bottle to soften. No matter the quantity of tannin, the best Nebbiolo wines will always have incredible quality, depth and length of tannin.

The bunches and berries are much larger than most of the French varieties. The colour of Nebbiolo wines can range from deep and dark to rusty tap water! Yet, a pale colour is often no indicator of the depth of flavour or quality of the wine.

A bit about Barbaresco

The area of Barbaresco is only 10min from Barolo, the difference in soil and weather can mean one may have a great year whilst the other is average.

Barbaresco DOCG regulations allow for wine to be released a year earlier than Barolo. Angelo Gaja, perhaps the most famed producer of Barbaresco, has largely chosen to ignore DOCG regulation in the pursuit of excellence. There is perhaps a question over whether marketing or tending of the vineyards and wines is the reason behind their cult status.

Whilst Gaja has been in the limelight wineries like Roagna and Produttori del Barbaresco have been quietly going about the business of making some of the best value Nebbiolo’s available today.

There is no doubt that the great Barbaresco’s are every bit as good as the great Barolo’s.

As a generalisation, Barbaresco tends to be less tannic and more approachable as younger wines. This has absolutely no impact on the ability of Barbaresco to age.