Domenico Clerico Barolo ‘Ciabot Mentin’ 2017

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

What’s Happening at Clerico?

Domenico did so much to help revitalise Barolo, it would however be fair to say that after the early revolution, evolution was very slow. The wines often dominated by overt oak and tough tannins.

With his passing prior to the 2017 vintage the baton changed hands with long time winemaker Oscar Arrivabene and we see a drop to less than 25% new wood in the Barolo and tonneau at that so like having 8% new oak in barrique format. Investments into fermentation technology in the winery see fermentation extended, with temp control and much gentler extraction.

End result the 2017 Barolos are by far the best I’ve ever had from Clerico. I’d go so far as saying there is a certain transparency here. The complexity of the fruit is shining. Monforte is the toughest of the Barolo communes in terms of structure. Yes, there are firm tannins, there should be. This is the Commune of Monforte, yet they are not over the top.

Grape variety:
100% Nebbiolo.

Production:
5.500 bottles.

Vineyard:
Ciabot Mentin in Ginestra cru, Monforte d’Alba.
Est, 440 m above sea level.
Clayey soil

Average age of the vines:
Planted in 1981.

Barrel program:
16 months barrique, constant tastings allow us to select those ready for the barrel assembly
16 months in barrel (5,000L)
+2 year in bottle

For many years I struggled with the wines of Domenico Clerico. I could see wonderful fruit, yet, struggled with the oak. Over the last decade there has been a significant reduction in the use of oak in the wines. Less and less new oak being used, whilst, alternative storage, including ceramic eggs and large oak foudre from Stockinger has increased.

The result, vibrant, crunchy, layered wines with a great expression of fruit.

From the Importer

My first memories of Domenico Clerico in my trips to Barolo were from some years back, driving south from the Commune of Barolo, and approaching the tee intersection to turn off towards Monforte – on the right is their standout, magnificently impressive and architecturally designed estate. I suppose in some ways, before I first met Domenico Clerico and visited his winery, I already had developed thoughts on his wines, and seeing this structure helped confirm this – rich, powerful and modern wines with a level of polish and sophistication. What did surprise me though was how small Domenico’s production was compared to the impression given from this imposing estate.

Taking over from his father in the late 70’s, in his early years, Domenico Clerico had the foresight to begin acquiring more real estate in Monforte which (perhaps by luck) included parcels of land in some of the most sort after crus. These included famous vineyards including Bussia, Ginestra, Pajana and Mosconi.

Although regarded as one of the leaders of the modernist movement, in recent times, there has been a clear step away from this very ‘new world’ approach with a significant reduction in the amount of new wood used, along with the addition of some larger format oak (and even the odd concrete egg fermenter!) now being found at the winery. Other changes such as slower fermentation and maceration times are helping show each Crus individuality. Over the past 4 to 5 years, chief Oenologist Oscar Arrivabene has been working as Domenico Clerico’s right-hand man, and with the passing of Domenico Clerico in July, Oscar has fully taken over the reins.

Oscar Arrivabene Explores the Wines

The 2017 Vintage in Barolo

Again a warmer year. 2017 will be remembered as hot with low rainfall. Winter was mild, while spring brought some rain and above-average temperatures. May saw the beginning of a long period of fine weather with summer maximums above average, though cooler nights than in other hot years.

End of August and early September, some welcome rain arrived, followed by a sharp drop in temperatures and marked diurnal temperature shifts. The later ripening nebbiolo and barbera benefitted most. While the overall growing season was shorter, it still lasted on average 185 days compared with 170 in other ‘hot’ years, and 200 in classic vintages.

The accumulation of anthocyanins and tannins was excellent, and while alcohols are higher, they are not out of the average, especially for nebbiolo. pH levels were good and acids lower. Yields were below average of compact bunches, with harvest occurring around 2 weeks early.

2017 yielded wines of great promise – the cool nights and return to ‘average’ conditions in September being major contributing factors. In fact the 2017 Barolos show remarkable freshness and elegance, with the top producers building on their experience of warmer years, which began with the torrid 2003.

“There is plenty to like about the 2017 Barolos… In tasting, the 2017s are mid-weight Barolos with the classic structure of Nebbiolo. They are often intensely aromatic. Acids and tannins are prominent in many wines. The fruit profiles are ripe, often distinctly redtoned, but not cooked or over-ripe. Perhaps most importantly, the 2017 Barolos are very true to site, which is always a concern with vintages marked by warm weather. The best 2017s are exceptionally polished, vivid and flat-out delicious”

Galloni

Galloni does an excellent job exploring the 2017 growing season and vintage in his article “2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again…” It’s clear the growers and makers of Piedmont have got their heads around warmer vintages and how to get the most in both the vineyard, and, the winery.

Domenico Clerico’s Barolo Vineyards

Clerico’s Cru Barolo vineyards are all clustered together in Monforte d’Alba with the exception of the new holding of the Baudana Cru in Serralunga d’Alba that is the source of the Barolo ‘Aeroplanservaj’, a wine I have yet to try. Even the Langhe Nebbiolo’s ‘Arte’ and ‘Capisme-e’, and, the Dolcetto ‘Viadi’ and Barbera ‘Trevigne’ are from Monforte sites.

This 3D flyover is Epic covering each of the communes you can see just how varied and extreme the aspect of each vineyard is and how in the space of a few metres just how dramatically the change.