Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 2020

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

Following the extraordinary 2018 and 2019 vintages, and despite another early harvest, 2020 has seen a return to a style verging on the classical mould. Defaix explains that nothing arrived in the winery above 13.5 degrees, and the pHs looked closer to those of 2017 than the previous two years. Another point of contrast was the relatively high levels of malic acid, bringing taut backbone to what is otherwise a (coolly) ripe vintage. Defaix’s enthusiasm for the vintage is well-founded: at this address, the 2020s are filled with great intensity, energy and drive.

About Bernard Defaix

Always searching for better ways of doing things, for ways to improve despite their solid base. Fourth generation Defaix, brothers Didier and Sylvain, have managed their vineyards organically and sustainably for many years and are remain one of the few certified growers in Chablis (certified in 2012). The wines are pure, fresh and mineral, and the forward-thinking pair also bottle most of their wines under screwcap.

Domaine Bernard Defaix produce some wonderful Chablis, all at remarkably good prices—the rare confluence of very high quality and low prices. The Estate owns 27 ha of vineyards in Chablis, of which half are Premier Cru—the Domaine is the largest holder of the famed Côte de Lechet. Since 2002, Didier’s wife, Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, has brought her own family holdings to the partnership and these southern Burgundies are also made with the same respect from their organically tended plots throughout Rully, through to the cellar in Chablis.

In the Vineyard

Vineyard practices are organic and biodynamic. Seeking constant improvement, Defaix continues work replanting exhausted vines, managing vine disease and frost, and working to understand the soils and ecosystem.

In the Winery

Things are pretty simple. Wild ferments in a combination of tank and barrel depending on the vineyard with lees stirring to add body and complexity as necessary.

The 2020 Vintage at Bernard Defaix

From Bernard Defaix:

The budburst arrived early after a mild and wet winter. Then the vine changed rapidly. Everyone remembers the outstanding weather conditions we have had during the first lockdown (from mid-March until mid-May in France) …

A short period of frost arrived on the first days of April with temperatures around -2°C/-3°C. Hopefully, the atmosphere was very dry, so the risk remained small. We did not have to use protection systems and there were no damages in the vineyard.

The growth kept going, very regular and still rapid during the whole season. Each time, the rainfalls arrived at the right time, followed by good weather periods. And the usual diseases (mildiou and oïdium) remained silent. The perfect season!

At the end of July unfortunately, two very warm days (more than 40°C) made significant damages in Chablis, roasting the grains. In Rully, the Chardonnay resisted rather well while the Pinot suffered a lot from the drought with problems of withered berries.

Regarding the quantity, we went from a good (even very good) harvest to an average one.
The young vines particularly suffered from the drought and the roasting while the old ones, deep-rooted, did very well.

As expected regarding the flowering date and the whole season, we had incredibly early harvest in Rully where we have started on August 24th to finish on the 28th. In Chablis, we have picked from September 1st to 8th.
There is a more significant gap than usual between the two areas. In Chablis, the rain on the 3rd week of August has helped to rebalance the situation and has delayed a bit the maturity date.

Just like last year, the fermentation started very quickly and went through without problems…

Qualitatively, the vintage 2020 has a style very closed to 2019, an excellent balance acidity/alcohol, a very good texture, structure and certainly a great potential for ageing.

On the reds, the outstanding maturity gives a concentration a bit higher than usual while remaining on a good balance.

Where in the World is Bernard Defaix?

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