Such an Expressive Wine!

Product information

Cavallotto Barolo ‘Bricco Boschis’ 2012

Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy

$145

Closure: Cork
2012 holds a sentimental spot in my heart, the year our first daughter was born. As if by design the 2012 Barolo's are beautiful wines.

Description

I’ve been fortunate to try many including a 2012 Capellano Rupestris earlier this week. They sit as classical Baroli, with an edge of restraint, great line and length, fresh fragrant fruit, a great sophistication. Cavallotto’s 2012 sit’s comfortably in this profile of the vintage.

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Why is this Wine so Yummy?

From the importer: Cavallotto release their Barolo wines when they consider them to be ready and this is why we are now offering the 2012 – when many other producers have released their 2013 wines months ago. The Bricco Boschis cru produces the Estate’s emblematic Barolo and is crafted from two parcels within this single vineyard. The Punta Marcello lies on the apex of the hill by the cantina. This cool terroir is planted to the relatively rosé sub-varietal of Nebbiolo, which is known for its fragrant, pale juice and long, angular tannins. The Vigna Colle Sud-Ovestparcel of the Bricco Boschis lies at a lower elevation and, facing due south, is the warmest microclimate of the hill. The wines from this part of the vineyard have proved to be more accessible when young, with darker, fruit-rich juice and softer tannins. The renowned Vigna San Giuseppe vines also often contribute to the blend. Together these three components form a complete picture of the cru, at once complementing each other and building aromatic and structural complexity into the final blend. Don’t think of this as an entry-level Barolo, it is so much more than that! Bricco Boschis is a truly profound vineyard and the vines for this cuvée average around 50 years of age! The wine spends about 30 days on skins before being aged in Slavonian oak casks of various sizes (all large, between 1,000-10,000 litres) for three years. The extra year in bottle has really made a wonderful difference here with some gorgeous honey and tobacco complexity coming through on both the aromatics and the silky, fleshy palate. It’s an extremely seductive, hedonistic Barolo that is also very well priced for the quality on offer. Alfio Cavallotto told us that this release reminds him of the 1998 version of this wine. It’s a terrific, perfectly balanced Barolo. Old school classic but fleshy and seductive as the tannins have begun to meld. I like it more than the 2011 (which I liked a lot).

About a year ago we had a Barolo Magnum festa. There were some seriously big names amongst the mix. The top 3 wines in no particular order 1999 Bartolo Mascarello, 1999 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia, and, 2001 Cavallotto ‘Bricco Boschis’ Riserva made from the ‘Vigna San Giuseppe’ parcel within Cavallotto’s Monopole ‘Bricco Boscis’.

That is some serious company to play with.

When you unearth the history of Cavallotto, all the elements are there, great sites, high planting density, balanced healthy vineyards with moderate crops, now farmed organically.

Two additional elements take their wines to the next level, vine age, continuity of farmers with the retention of wisdom it offers! This is, and, has always been a family business, knowledge built on, and, passed from generation to generation.

Common threads run through Cavallotto’s wines, from their Dolcetto, to their Barbera, and, Nebbiolo’s, Langhe, Barolo Bricco Boschis, and, Barolo Riserva from Vigna San Guiseppe and Vigna Vignolo.

They are focused on purity of fruit, without the interference of oak, complexity, and, are one of the best examples off carefully considered élévage on the market. All of this results in wines of great expression and vibrancy.

Earlier this week I tasted, read drank, 12 x 2010 Baroli. Reflecting on the mix, there was a distinction between modern and traditional styles, perhaps less obvious than you would have seen 10 years ago, none the less it was there. The most modern of styles tended to have darker colour, less complexity, more new oak, look slightly more clinical and clean, not having the personality of the more traditional wines which tended to have great harmony, complexity, and, more intrigue. Unfortunately 2 of the more traditional wines clearly lacked cellar hygiene and were spoiled by Brettanomyces.

Cavallotto’s wines clearly sit on the classic, traditional, Barolo side of the ledger.

Cavallotto’s Wine Making

As you’d expect from wines made in a more classical style, there’s longer maceration, time on skins, which often softens tannins, and, layers in complexity, think perfume and truffles. Oak is old and large Botte 2,000-10,000L in volume. Not only do these keep the wine fresher during maturation, but, impart no oak tannins, aroma or flavour. Maturation is longer, than, many in both Botte and then bottle, the very reason you’re just seeing the 2012 Barolo now when many have released 2013’s.

They make such beautiful, expressive wines!

Where in the World do Cavallotto’s wines come from?

Cavallotto is yet another example of knowing your producers, and, their vineyards. In the heart of Castiglione Falletto, Cavallotto holds the monopole (single owner) vineyard Bricco Boschis, only a stones through away from another famed Barolo monopole, Monprivato. Although I don’t like comparing the two, Monprivato, produces some of the most Burgundian, Nebbiolo I’ve ever had.

You can see the Barbera in the light green on the map is planted on the ‘Bricco Boschis’, it’s just going to be good. Just like Vietti’s Langhe Nebbiolo, Cavallotto’s is sourced from vineyards that are effectively declassified Barolo vineyard.

Surrounding the Bricco Boschis, within 500m are the remainder of their holdings. Including the Vigna Vignolo, consistently the source of their Riserva.

All the vines have serious age, with Dolcetto planting near 40 years old, Barbera 55 years, and, Nebbiolo 45 to 55 years old.


*Watch or listen as we explore the history, vineyards, winemaking and wines of Cavallotto!

Personality+

Drinking beautifully on first pour. A classic Barolo, seamless, with great harmony. It's incredibly drinkable now. Oppulent fruit is combined with restraint and supple, caressing tannins that run the length of your tongue. Roses and violets lift from the glass, enhanced by earthy, truffled hints. Every sniff has you finding a different aroma to enjoy. Bags of personality it's elegant, delicious, and, with a great core of fruit. The expression and generosity entice, with fine tannins complemented by lingering flavours. This is cracking Barolo showing it's pedigree. The careful élévage, brings the wine together, such harmony!

Paul Kaan - Chief Wine Hacker, Wine Decoded

92 Points

The Bricco Boschis site in Castiglione Falletto shows stunning results in the classic vintages… The 2012 Barolo Bricco Boschis is a more immediate and perhaps more accessible edition. The bouquet opens to plump fruit tones with dried cherry and plum. You also get warm tones of autumnal leaf, tobacco, wild mushroom and savory spice. The wine's texture is velvety and a bit softer.

Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate

94 Points

A firm, dense backbone of acidity and tannins shores up this red's cherry, strawberry, mint, tobacco and iron flavors. A beam of succulent acidity extends the long, spicy aftertaste. Best from 2020 through 2036.

Wine Spectator

Where in the world does the magic happen?

Fratelli Cavallotto – Tenuta vitivinicola Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto, Province of Cuneo, Italy

Castiglione Falletto
Piedmont
Italy